Method and means of making handmade neckties



. March 14, 1939. N GOLD 2,l50,438

METHOD AND MEANS 0F MAKING HAND-MADE NEGKTIES Filed April l2, 1937 6 Sheets-Sheet l N. GOLD METHOD AND MEAN OF MAKING HANDMADE NECKTIES Filed April 12, 1937 j 6 sheets-sheet 2 a T.. Emnrml Wm In@ NAi@ J mw N\../.P @Ar im c `c f l m L W, W NN NN wx f W u H m A M \vm QWQ.. k

March 14, 1939,

N. GOLD METHOD AND MEANS OF MAKING HAND-MADE NECKTIES l l2, 1937 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR. NATHAN GOLD.

N. GOLD March 14, W39.

METHOD AND MEANS OF MAKINGl HAND-MADE IIECKTIES Filed April 12, 1937 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR. NATHAN GOLD.

ATTORNEY I d. v ,J m Q uw W n A N N\ March 14, 1939.

N. GOLD -MADE NECKTIES il l2, 1957 METHOD AND MEANS OF MAKING HAND 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Apr ATTURNEY N.. GOLD Mmh 14, 1939.

METHOD AND MEANS O'F MAKING HAND-MADE NECKTIES 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed April v12, 1937 E .mfdrmll IN V EN TOR.- NATHAN GOL D.

T RNEY Patented Mar. 14, 1939 UNITED STATES METHOD AND MEANS' OF MAKING HAND- MADE NECKTIES Nathan Gold, Portland, Oreg. Application April 12, 1937, serial No. 136,294

7 Claims.

This invention relates tol amethod and means of manufacturing hand-madeneckties and has for its principal object to provide a machine autofmatic in operation and which will assist an operrl ator in hand stitching neckties accurately, e'-

ciently and in a minimum amount of time. 'I'he invention is particularly well adapted for the manufacture of neckties of the four-in-hand type.

One of the principal objects of the invention is the provision of a stitching guide in the form of reciprocating elements which engage the tie intermittently and advance it in timed relation to the speed of the operator. vNeedle guides` are provided in the projections to guide the sewing needle through the tie elements in such a manner as to form the stitches, and particularly the type of stitches shown and described in my copending application, Serial No. 51,355, filed No'- vember 25, 1935 and entitled Necktie.

Another object of the invention is the provision of means for operating the machine which may be actuated either by the foot or knee of the operator to thereby leave both hands free for stitching and otherwise dealing with the necktie.

A further object of the invention is the provision of a laterally adjustable receptacle running lengthwise of the machine which may be narrowed or widened toaccommodate neckties of predetermined widths.

30 A still fumier object of the invention is the' provision of means automatic in operation for securely positioning the various tie elements vwithin the channel way and for releasing the same immediately after the stitching operation.

Th-ese and other objects will. appear as my invention is more fully hereinafter described in the following specication, illustrated in the accompanying drawings, andv finally pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a sectional elevationtaken on line I-I o fFigure 7, of the operating end of my machine. l j

45 Figure 2 is a View showing the release mechanism for the locking pawl shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a sectional view taken on line 3'-3 of Figure 1. y v v Figure 4 is a sectional View taken on, line 4-4 50'OfFlglJle 1. ,y Y

Figure 5 is a sectional elevation of the idler end of -my machine.

Figure 6 is a top plan view of a portion of the carrier belt, adjustable tie-receptacle and pres- 55 sure ngers.

Figure '7 is a, top plan view of Figure 1 with the carrier belt removed.

yFigure 8 is an enlarged sectional side View of a portion of Figure l shown in operating position.

Figure 9 is a side elevation of a portion of the 5 operating end of my machine, showing the release mechanism for the pressure lingers.

Figure 10 is a sectional view taken on line lll-l0 of Figure 9. f

Figure 11 is a sectional elevation of the pressure 10 fingers and holder.

Figure 12 is a side elevation of one of the pressure lingers, detached from the holder.

Figure 13 is a top plan View of Figure12. Figure- 14 is an enlarged sectional side elevation through the tie-elements, showing the stitch which is made on the machine as shown in Figure V8 and when advancing thetie-elements one rspace at a time. Y 1

Figure 15 is an enlarged section of the tie-ele 20 ments, showing the stitch which is made on the machinev when arranged to have three lifting points, as shown in Figure 17, and with the tie- `elements advancing two spaces each time and continuing the needle straight through the ele- 25 vated portions of the tie-elements.A

' Figure 16 is an enlarged section of the tie- Velements showing the stitch which is made on themachin-e when arranged to have three lifting points, as shown in Figure 1'7, and with the tiel30A elements advancing two spaces each time.

. Figure 17 is an enlarged view similar to Figure 8 but showing three lifting points, which are used when making the stitch shown in Figure 15 Aor Figure 16.

Figure 18 is a side elevation, drawn on a reduced scale, of the complete machine and showing the carrier belt in section.

Figure 19 is a top plan view of the operating end of my machine, showing a. portion of a tie 40 in place and showing some of the pressure fingers holding the tie and its lining in place and also showing some of the pressure lingers in released position.

k Referring nowmore particularly to the drawings:

The main body of the machine comprises a. pair of parallel side members l and 2. At one end of the main body, by means of a shaft 3 I rotatably mount an idling drum 5, and at the opposite end, by means of shaft 4 I rotatably mount a driving drum 6. The peripheries of both drums are Yformed into a series of flat portions or panels y1. An intermediate idling drum lA is rotatably mounted on a shaft 1B. Both of said drums are 55 operatively embraced by a carrier belt, generally indicated at 8, and which consists of a series of plates 8A each mounted upon links I0 which are pivotally interconnected, as at Il. Each plate is substantially equal to the width of the flat portions of the drum for proper operative engagement therewith. Each plate of the belt is provided with opposed and adjustably mounted abutments l2 which are slotted, as shown, and mounted to the plates by set screws I3. By means of the abutments, I provide a receptacle to receive the various structural el-ements of a necktie, such,

for instance, as the lining ld, reinforcing strip l5 and the tie-casing i6. By means of these-.adjustable abutments, a receptacle of various widths may be provided to accommodate any predetermined Width of necktie or elements thereof.

Each plate of the carrier belt is providedwith a series of apertures Il preferably rectangular in shape, as shown. All of these apertures are in `alignment with each other and the abutrn'ents are equally disposed on both sides 'of the line 'of 'apertures so'that the apertures will lie along the center of the tie-elements when placed in the receptacle.

Along the operators side oi the machine I provide a series of pressure ngers, generally indicated at i8. The lingers are arranged in groups of three'or more, as shown, and each group of ngers are handled as a unit and are embraced within a carrier 20 which is pivotally mounted as at 2| vto a rocker-arm 22. The rocker-arm is pivotally mounted as at 2`3 to an extension 2d secured to one end ofthe plate 8A; The bottom Wall 25 of the carrier 20 is apertured as at 2S to receive one end of a latch 2l which is pivoted as at 28 to the extension 2d. When the carrier, latch and rocker-arm are in the full-line positions, shown in Figure 3, the pressure fingers Sil are in position and are bearing against the tieelements to securely maintain them in position between the abutments I2.

As illustrated in Figures 8 and 17 the fingers are capable of yielding upwardly with the protrusion of the needles to be hereinafter described. As illustrated in Figure v1lk each linger 30 is pivotally mounted to the carrier as at 3l and yleldingly mounted with respect thereto means lof a spring 32 coiled around a shaft 33 Aextending through the carrier. The rear portion of each nger is of channel section, and near the rear end of the channel section I form a notch 34 for removable engagement'with the shaft 33 so that each finger may be removed 'from the carrier if necessary. The free end of the spring 32 slidably engages with Ya depressed portion 35 of the top surface of the nger so :that each finger may be removed by merely disengaging the notch from the shaft 33 and then drawing it outwardly to disengage the spring from the depressed portion.

As previously pointed out each plate'v of the carrier belt is provided with a series of apertures l1 to permit therpassage of locating-needle bars 3G through the plate and into engagement with the tie material toelevateand maintain the 4same in avposition for sewing. The locating meansconsists oa pair `of needlesil` either `formed `integral with, or removably secured to, the needle bars 3,6. The upper end of each needle bar is notched or grooved as at 36A to guide a sewing needle in, an accurate path along side they needles 31. lThe needle bars are removably secured as atv 39 toa'n actuating bar 40 whichl is slidably mounted within a stationary casing 4I. 'I'he lower end of the actuating bar is provided with a stud d2, for pivotal engagement with one arm 133 of a bell crank. The other arm of the bell crank extends upwardly from its pivot pointill into pivotal connection as at l5 with a link 46. The opposite end of the link 56 Vpivotally connects as at lll with a lever 48 pivotally mounted to the frame of the machine as at 49. The lever continues downwardly from the pivot point and terminates in an actuating varm 50.' which preferably terminates within convenient reach of either the operators knee or foot. Formed integral with the lever 48 and also pivotally mounted to the shaft i9 is a lleverl irl/'hose free 'end is provided with a pawl 52 pivoted as at 53 to the arm Stand normally held in a-downward position by any suitable form or spring 53A. Thearm 5l is normally held in its full line position, as shown in Figure l, by

. means oi a spring 56 whose one end connects, as

at '55, with the arm 5l, and whose opposite end is connected with one of the side members' of the machine, as at '56. Al ratchet-wheel 5l is secured Ycontact with the ratchet-wheel. For rotating the drum i5 and advancing the carrier belt step by step, or one plate ata time, 'the lever 50 is rst moved into the'd'ottecl line position,fshown ini Figure 1. This movement draws the pawl 52 rearwardly and allows it to drop into the next following tooth of the ratchet-wheel. When so engaged and the lever 5i! is released by the opera'tor, the .sp-ring 53 moves the lever into its normal full line 'position shown in Figure l. 'This movement from right to left-off the lower end of the arm 5l) causesthe upper arrn'iilV to move from left to right with a resultant advancement of the ratchet-wheel one notch through the medium of the pawl. When it is desired to rotate the vdrums or m'ove the carrier belt freely in either engagement with the 'sprocket-wheel and for arresting its' movement together with the movement of the drum and ratchet-wheel I provide a locking pawl 6| which is keyed or otherwise secured to a shaft 62 'whose ends are rotatably mounted in the side walls ofA the machine. The outer end of the pawl 6| is formed with a lobe 63 for engagement with the sprocket-wheel as shown( When thus engaged, the pawl'lil prevents any movement or rotation of the drum 6 and ratchet-wheel- 5l during the time l,the pawl A 52 is being drawn rearwardly forro-engagement withthe teeth of the ratchet-wheel.A The opposite end of the pawl terminates in a projection or cam Se arranged in the path of movement-of a cam 65, formed integral with the shaft 59. The cam 58 and the cam 65 areso set with relation to each other, that when the cam 5S moves the pawl 52 into a neutral position,.the Cain 65Ywill, at the same time through the medium ofthe cam 64, move the pawl 6| and itsV lobe 63-0ut of engagement with the ratchet-wheel.'

From the foregoing it willbe seen thatby rocking thearm 50 about its pivot point 49 the carrier belt will be advanced tothe right step by step. Each step or movement of theV belt brings the apertures in the plates of the belt into alignment with the needle bars 38 which are projected upwardly through the apertures through the medium of the link 46,' bell'crank and actuating bar 40. The bar All is thrust upwardly each time the arm 50 is moved into its dotted line position, as shown in Figure 1.

As previously pointed out the various elements ofA the necktie, such as the lining, reinforcing strip and tie casing, are first arranged within the receptacle or guidewayformed between the abutments I2. Whenthus positioned, the lpressure fingers 3i! are then advanced inwardly and downwardlyinto firm engagement with the tie elements thus holding them securely in place. Then as the machine is actuated through the lever 5i), the needles 31 are projected up through the apertures, through all of the tie-elements and beyond the same as shown in Figures 8 and 17. As shown in those figures the tie material is moved upwardly from the carrier belt into a convenient sewing position. The resilient movement of the pressure fingers 30 is such that they will yield upwardly along with the tie material only up to a certain limit as deiined by the top edge 6E of the carrier 20. The carrier, however, is prevented from moving upwardly by the latch 21, as shown in Figure 3. iingers 3i! are allowed a predetermined amount of resilient movement within the carrier 2010etween the top edge 66 and the bottom edge thereof. The limited upward movement of the fingers 3D depresses the tie'material between the needles 31 to thereby present areas 51 to be stitched.

With reference to Figure 19 it will be seen that asl'the stitching progresses those ngers which had been previously engaged withthe tie are released and moved away fromthe finished portion of the tie. The releasing and rearwardly moving of the carrier and fingers is accomplished by a fork having two fingers 68 and 69 (see Figure 10). The fork is formed integral with a bell crank arm 1i). The opposite arm 1l of the bell crank is connected by a link 12 with a lever 13 which is keyed or otherwise secured to the shaft 49 whose one end projects through the frame member and terminates in a bearing 14. Accordingly, as the lever 50 is moved and the shaft 49 is rotated, the forked arm 10 of the bell crank is moved from its full to dotted line position. Such movement brings the fork 69 into contact with the latch 21 which disengages it from the carrier, thus freeing the carrier for its upward movement. VvProgressively the fork 58 then contacts the rocker-arm 22 and moves it into its dotted line position whichdraws the carrier rearwardly and away from the tie material, as best illustrated at the right-hand end of Figure 19.

In Figure 8 I have shown two needles projecting upwardly through the necktie material and elevating the same into a position to be sewed. By using two needles, I form a stitching as shown in Figure 14. This stitch is accomplished by first advancing the sewing needle 15 through the material from the right to the left, as shown in Figure 8, after, of course, the thread has been knotted or otherwise secured, as at 16, to the material. The sewing needle 15 is advanced entirely through the material and the thread is drawn through with it after rst forming a loop 11 at the starting of the sewing opera- It `Willbe noted that the.

tion. After the loop has been formed and the thread has been advanced entirely through the material, the arm 50 is actuated and this withdraws the needles ffrom the apertures I1 and the carrier belt is advanced to the right, as viewed in Figure 8, to the distance between two ofthe apertures so that the next time the needles 36 are projected the needle on the right, designated as A will be projected through the aperture through which the needle, designated B, had been previously projected. Then the needle B will be projected in the next following aperture. VIn other words, the carrier -belt is advanced one aperture ata time. By this, I mean that an aperture will rst receive, for example, the needle B, and in the next operation will receivev the needle A. Thus withdrawing the needle A from the part of the tie already stitched and advancing it through the part of the tie previously and only partially stitched over needle B, the operator merelyloops the thread back over the previously stitched portion to complete the loop and then advances to the next needle. Thus by forming a stitch of this type I securely lock the tie elements together between the loop portions of the stitch and each stitch vis interconnected with the other. This particular type of stitching is best shown and described in my co-pending application, Serial No. 51,355, filed November 25, 1935 and entitled Necktie.

, In the form illustrated in Figure 1'7, I provide three needles instead of two and for convenience of description, I have designated these needles as C, D and'E. By using the three needles I accomplish the forms of stitching illustratedin Fig- Y ures 15, and 16. The form shown in Figure 15 is an ordinary basting stitch and to accomplish this form of stitching it is merely necessary to advance the sewing needle 15 straight through the elevated portions of the tie to be sewed without any looping except at the beginning of the stitching operation, as indicated at 18. When the needle 15 has Vpassed entirely through all three elevated portions of the tie to be sewed the locating needles are then dropped downwardly and the carrier belt is advanced to present three following apertures to receive the three nneedles on their next upward movement. By this arrangement, I position the locating needles to accomplish three stitches with each movement of the arm 5D.

'I'he form of stitching shown in Figure 16 consists of first a loop stitch then a basting stitch and again a loop stitch and so on throughout the lengthof the tie. This form of stitching is also accomplished by using the three needles and in so doing the thread at the beginning is looped to secure its end and the needle is advanced entirely through the three elevated portions of the tie to be sewed. That portion of the tie over the center needle is sewed with a basting stitch while the portions over the two end needles are sewed with a loop stitch. -When the three stitches thus described are accomplished, the three needles are dropped and the carrier belt is advanced to present two new apertures for C and D but needle E projects upwardly through the aperture previously occupied by the needle C. This brings that portion of the tie which was only partly sewed over the needle C into a position for completing the loop stitch at the beginning of the next series of three stitches. The sewing needle is again advanced as aforesaid, to form a basting stitch over the center needle and a partial stitch over the last needle. The grooves or notches 36A in the top of the needle bars are in alignment lwith each and Vform a convenient guide for the sewing needle.

By elevating portions of the tie to be sewed, as shown in Figures 8 and 17, I am enabled to quickly, efficiently and accurately form a series of interconnected hand-made stitches with a reserve of thread between them.

While I have shown a particular form of embodiment of my invention, I am aware that many minor changes therein will readily suggest themselves to others skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:-

I claim:

1. A machine for manufacturing neckties comprising an endless belt, receptacles formed in the belt for receiving structural elements of a necktie, means for maintaining the elements within the receptacle, a plurality of stitch-locating members adapted to be progressively projected through the belt andl into engagement with the tie-elements, and means for advancing the belt and tie-elements.

2` A machine for manufacturing neckties, comprising an endless carrier belt, a laterally adjustable receptacle formed in the belt for receiving structural elements of a necktie, means for maintaining the tie-elements within the receptacle through a predetermined distance of travel of the carrier belt, a plurality of stitchlocating needles adapted to be progressively projected through the belt and through the tieelement's, and means for advancing the carrier belt upon withdrawing the locating needles from the belt.

3. A machine for manufacturing neckties, comprising an endless carrier belt, a laterally adjustable receptacle formed in the belt for receiving structural elements of a necktie, means' progressively projected through the belt and through the tie-elements and to elevate portions of the tie-elements into a position to be handstitched, and means for advancing theV carrier belt upon withdrawing the locating needles from the belt.

4. A machine for manufacturing neckties, comprising an elongated frame, an endless carrier belt running lengthwise around the frame, automatically releasable fingers formed on the belt for positioning the necktie elements lengthwise of the belt, a'plurality of needles adapted to be moved through the belt and through theV tieelements and for elevating portions of the tieelements into a position to be hand-sewed, an means for advancing the belt.

5. A machine for manufacturing neckties, comprising a movable necktie supporting platform having an adjustable necktie receptacle formed lengthwise thereof, a needle operating Vline through said ridges then returning the needle and thread and `again advancing through one of said ridges to form a loop stitch therein.

7. A machine for `manufacturing neckties, comprising an endless carrier belt, means formed on the belt for receiving kelements of a necktie, a plurality of. needles adap-ted to be projected through the belt and through the tie-elements,

means intermediate the needles for depressing portions of the tie-elements between the needles, means for intermittently advancing the needles through the belt and the tie-elements and for withdrawing the needles therefrom, and means for advancing the carrier belt and tie-elements.

NATHAN GOLD. 

